The glamour of dresses, the elegance of pearls, and the unparalleled branding of any perfume worldwide – welcome to The New Look.
The limited series, consisting of 10 parts, features Ben Mendelsohn and Juliette Binoche in the lead roles as designers Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. It follows their individual journeys during Nazi-occupied France and in the post-war period. While their paths seldom cross, they are linked by global events that propel them onto unforeseen paths.
During the occupation, Dior, then an emerging designer working for Lucien Lelong (John Malkovich), finds himself compelled to create dresses for Nazis and their sympathizers. Meanwhile, his sister Catherine Dior (played by Maisie Williams) joins the resistance. As Catherine gets apprehended and interrogated early in the series, Dior becomes fixated on rescuing her.
In parallel, Chanel, a prominent figure in Paris, becomes a target for the Nazis who are holding her nephew, André Palasse (Joseph Olivennes), as a prisoner of war. Historical accounts highlight her romantic involvement with a high-ranking German intelligence officer named Hans Günther von Dincklage (Claes Bang), along with indications suggesting her role as a Nazi intelligence operative.
This dual portrayal adds historical depth to the drama, providing insights into other designers as well. In Dior's world, figures like Cristobal Balenciaga (Nuno Lopes) and Pierre Balmain (Thomas Poitevin) appear. In Chanel's circle, many friends and lovers come and go. A highlight is Elsa Lombardi (Emily Mortimer), referred to as Chanel's old "muse." Lombardi, a British socialite, introduced Chanel to the Duke of Westminster and Winston Churchill.
Haute couture plays a pivotal role in revitalizing the French spirit. Following the liberation of Paris, a scaled-down fashion show within a Louvre annex featured over 200 dolls adorned in creations by designers like Balenciaga, Balmain, and Dior. Human models were impractical due to a shortage of fabric. This display of French craftsmanship attracts over 100,000 visitors, offering a glimpse into the transformative power of high fashion.
In 1946, amidst continued rationing of bread and scarcity of coal and fuel in Paris, Dior breaks away from Lelong and establishes his own fashion house on Avenue Montaigne. His postwar collection, famously known as "the new look," achieves immediate success, propelling Paris back to the forefront of the couture world. This comes after London and New York had dominated the fashion scene during the war years.
There are some unnecessary scenes, particularly when it comes to the depictions of concentration camps, torture, and Nazism. Though these moments are minimal, they can trigger trauma. Eliminating them could have tightened up the storyline somewhat and helped the overall pacing.
Similar to the stylish designs showcased in the series, The New Look aims to prompt viewers to delve deeper into the lives of these individuals beyond the screen. In this regard, it triumphs, showcasing the complexities of characters navigating dire moral quandaries.
The New Look premieres with three episodes on Wednesday, Feb. 14, exclusively on Apple TV+.
